Anti-Pollution Matrix EN – Categories of Active Ingredients and Product Classes – Repair – Products that help mitigate skin dyspigmentation caused by pollutants

Anti-Pollution Matrix

Products that help mitigate skin dyspigmentation caused by pollutants

Anti-Pollution Matrix > Categories of Active Ingredients and Product Classes > Repair
> Products that help mitigate skin dyspigmentation caused by pollutants

Explanation

Environmental pollutants (airborne pollutants) interfere with melanin synthesis pathways and can thus lead to dark spots, overall darkening of the skin and uneven skin tone, contributing to the outward signs of skin aging.

 

Possible approaches

Active ingredients that regulate melanin synthesis pathways can counteract the effects of various environmental pollutants.

 

Product categories

Face & skin care products (e.g. creams, serums, ointments)

 

Examples of ingredients

Ingredients that modulate skin pigmentation are most likely to have an effect on dyspigmentation caused by pollution.

  • Plant and algae extracts
  • Antioxidants of synthetic or natural origin (e.g., vitamin C and its derivatives)
  • Niacinamide (vitamin B3)
  • UV filters
  • Other specific molecules for skin lightening (e.g. arbutin)
  • Specific pigments and fillers (covering effect)

Proof of efficacy required, as efficacy is generally concentration and matrix dependent.

General regulatory requirements must also be observed.

 

Examples of claims

Helps/can help to,

  • reduce melanin synthesis caused by pollution, significantly reduce dark spots and improve skin tone with even pigmentation.
  • maintain an even skin tone and reduce dark spots.
  • inhibit α-MSH, a natural hormone that stimulates skin pigmentation
  • inhibit tyrosinase, regulate MCR1 (α-MSH receptor), affect melanosome function and maturation, and attenuate melanosome transport within melanocytes and melanosome transport to keratinocytes.

 

Examples of evidence of efficacy / Methods

Skin color (In vivo)

  • Chromameter
  • Images
  • Visualization techniques, e.g. SIAscope, Mexametry, Vivascope
  • Melanin detection in cell and tissue culture

 

Literature
  • Schikowski et al. 2020, Air pollution and skin aging. Curr Environ Health Rep 7(1):58-64. DOI: 1007/s40572-020-00262-9
  • Herrling T. et al. 2008, The role of melanin as protector against free radicals in skin and its role as free radical indicator in hair. Spectrochimica Acta Part A 69:1429-1435. doi: 10.1016/j.saa.2007.09.030
  • Xiao L. et al. 2007, Inhibitory eVect of the water-soluble polymer-wrapped derivative of fullerene on UVA-induced melanogenesis via downregulation of tyrosinase expression in human melanocytes and skin tissues. Arch Dermatol Res 299:245-257. DOI 10.1007/s00403-007-0740-2
  • Maeda, K. et al. 1991, In vitro effectiveness of several whitening cosmetic components in human melanocytes. J Soc Cosmet Chem 42:361-368.