Products that minimize the degradation of elastic and structural proteins (e.g., collagens and elastins) and/or the extracellular matrix

Anti-Pollution Matrix > Categories of Active Ingredients and Product Classes > Repair
> Products that minimize the degradation of elastic and structural proteins (e.g., collagens and elastins) and/or the extracellular matrix

Explanation

Environmental pollution is known to break down structural proteins such as collagen and elastin, affecting the skin's firmness and elasticity. This can lead to signs of premature skin aging; also known as extrinsic aging.

 

Possible approaches

This is achieved primarily through active ingredients incorporated into formulations, the regular use of which can then counteract the breakdown of molecules such as collagen and elastin.

 

Product categories

Face & skin care products (e.g. creams, serums, ointments)

 

Examples of ingredients

Ingredients that modulate collagen and elastin content are most likely to show an effect on the loss of firmness and elasticity caused by environmental pollution (pollution).

Synthetic origin:

• Mixtures of skin-identical long-chain and short-chain ceramides
• Vitamins, such as vitamin C, vitamin A and its derivatives
• Peptides

Plant-derived:

• Polysaccharide-containing plant extract
• Plant extract rich in oligosaccharides
• Plant extract rich in omega-3 fatty acid
• Plant based stem cells
• Plant extract rich in vitamins

Marine origin:

• (Micro)-Algae extracts (e.g. rich in vitamins and polysaccharides)
• Kelp extracts (brown algae | e.g. with sulfated fucose)

As efficacy is generally concentration- and matrix-dependent, proofs of efficacy are required.

 

Examples of claims

• counteracts loss of firmness and elasticity of the skin caused by environmental pollution
• supports the repair and maintenance of the extracellular membrane for an excellent skin firming effect
• helps stimulate the formation of collagen
• reduces the activities of enzymes that break down elastin and collagen and improves the natural elasticity and firmness of the skin
• protects the integrity and stability of cell walls from harmful environmental influences
• maintains skin firmness, elasticity and suppleness, supports skin regeneration and protects against environmental stress
• protects the structural protein of the skin

 

Examples of evidence of efficacy / Methods

• Measurements of skin thickness, e.g. by means of sonography
• Measurements of skin elasticity, e.g. by means of cutometry
• Measurements of skin firmness, e.g. by means of cutometry
• Evaluation of collagen content in the skin (SIAscope)
• Evaluation of skin laxity, e.g. by means of quantitative visualization techniques
• Molecular analysis of procollagen and MMP-1 in interstitial fluid obtained from biopsies of the epidermis e.g. Suction Blister Method

 

Literature

• Mistry N., 2017, Guidelines for Formulating Anti-Pollution Products Cosmetics, 4, 57 https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics4040057
• Vierkötter A., Schikowski T., Ranft U., Sugiri D., Matsui M., Krämer U., Krutmann J., Airborne particle exposure and extrinsic skin aging, Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 2010, 130(12), 2719–2726 DOI: 10.1038/jid.2010.204